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COSTUMES FROM THRACE
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KAROTI
The main components of the costume worn in Karoti, and in other
villages where the same costume type is observed, is a home-made
cotton chemise, embroidered around the hem line. A blue
sleeveless, single-paneled, heavy cotton dress, the
tsoukna, which had two openings to facilitate breast-
feeding, was worn over the chemise. Another distinctive feature
to the costume is the bronze belt, known as the
bakirozounaro, accentuated by its ornamental bronze and
enamel buckle, known as the korona. This type of belt is
encountered only in the area of Thrace, and is hand-made by
Thracean goldsmiths, called kouyioumtzides. The apron is
wool, hand-woven with a geometrical design and sequins were
applied to keep the Evil-Eye away. The costume also includes a
beautiful head-dress known as the bourboula.
As a bridal costume, the color red is very predominant. Above the
chemise a short red jacket is added. The sleeves of the jacket
are adorned with yellow, green and blue needle-work. The woman's
hair is also braided with brightly-colored ribbons. Real hair-
pieces were added to lengthen the woman's hair. The head-piece
consists of three scarves: the first, blue in color, covered the
forehead; the second, yellow in color, fringed, draped under the
chin and tied at the crown; the third, white in color, triangle
in shape, was placed on top of the first two. To decorate the
head-piece further, a rectangular hand-beaded piece was added to
the left side of the temple. Coins were used to accent the
forehead and adorn the bosom. Stockings were knitted from thick
wool. Cloth slippers completed the ensemble.
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KAVAKLI
The people of Kavakli arrived as refugees in 1906 and settled in a
number of villages. The region was in Northern Thrace, which
today is in Bulgaria. The women wove and embroidered their
clothes themselves with stitching of exquisite quality. The shirt
reached half way down the calf. the upper part was made of deep
blue woven cotton cloth and the skirt of white. The embroidery
around the neck, cuffs and hem was done using multi-colored
threads of silk or wool. The sleeveless woolen garment worn over
this was dyed a deep blue. The opening of the bodice was richly
embroidered with brightly colored threads. The women pleated
their skirt, decorating the hem with stripes of silk, gold braid
and embroidery. The four-meter-long sash was usually red with
multi-colored stripes and sewn on the slant for a better fit at
the waist. Over it was tied a woolen apron with its woven
decoration. It was possible to distinguish between married or
single women, mothers or women in mourning just by looking at the
type of apron worn.
In winter the women wore a sleeveless topcoat made of woven wool,
which was modestly stitched and embroidered around the hem. On
their head a little fez was shrouded with a printed woolen scarf
folded into a bend. Over this was thrown a large printed scarf
with a fringe, the ends hanging down loose. The bapka, a
decoration consisting of 5, 10 or even 15 coins, arranged in the
shape of cross, was attached to the fez and hung down over the
forehead.
The costume continued to be worn in Greece as well, but simplified
bit by bit until it was finally abandoned altogether. It belongs
to the category of village type costumes.
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METAXADES
The poor quality of the soil of the Florina plateaus, prevented
the local residents from wearing clothing of expensive material.
The nearby forest offered some resources, such as timber,
charcoal and bee-keeping, but the people lived a life of
deprivation and hardship. The women wove their own cotton and
woolen cloth from which they sewed their simple, austere dresses.
The white cotton chemise was embroidered around the hem line and
on the sleeves with colored threads. The opening of the front of
the chemise was bordered by brightly-colored fabric. A floral
patterned jabot of bought fabric was placed at the opening of the
bodice. A black woolen, sleeveless overcoat, the sigouni,
was worn over this. This overcoat was embroidered around the neck
and on the front with brightly-colored threads. The sash,
approximately two meters in length, was made of black wool and
tied around the waist at the top of the apron. The black and red
apron was always home spun and woven. The simple black scarf,
placed upon the head, was adorned with a string of pearls. These
pearls were considered to be part of the dowry.
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