Energeia 2h - Ntokimanter

Ntokimanter ODOIPORIKO STOYS AMPELWNES THS MAKEDONIAS

Protash synxrhmatodothshs ths EUROBIG.

H protash toy Eyrwpaikoy kai Balkanikoy omiloy Epikoinwnias EUROBIG Ellas poy perigrafetai analytika sthn synexeia, pisteyoyme oti 8a dwsei mia polytimh optikh katagrafh twn istorikwn diadromwn toy krasioy pernwntas apo ta a3iologa arxaiologika kai politistika drwmena ths ka8e perioxhs.

Exei ginei apodekth h protash apo thn ENOAM ka8ws kai apo thn ERT gia thn syngxrhmatodothsh ths.

Fysika 8ewreitai dedomeno oti o OPPE 8'97 8a exei thn dynatothta ths xrishs toy ntokimanter gia probolh alla kai syn8esh diaforetikwn enothtwn poy epi8ymei gia idiaiteres apaithseis probolhs.

Episynaptetai h protash ths EUROBIG sthn opoia kai analyetai o proypologismos, h filosofia kai o stoxos toy ntokimanter.

Exei ypologistei oti ton Genarh toy 1997 8a einai etoimo gia probolh stis ekdhlwseis toy OPPE 8'97.

O O.P.P.E. 8'97 8a exei kai ta anamenomena kerdh apo thn emporikh ekmetalleysh twn ntokimanter analoga me to pososto symmetoxhs toy sthn paragwgh dhl. to 50% twn esodwn.

Epishs 8a anaferetai ws symparagwgos stoys titloys, sta treiler, sta deltia typoy kai se ka8e morfhs dhmosiopoihsh twn ntokimanter.

Ektos apo to proteinomeno senario gia thn diatrofh kai to krasi, stoxos einai na dhmioyrgh8ei kai ena kommati gia thn istoria ths Gastronomias sthn 8essalonikh poy 8a problh8ei s' oles tis ekdhlwseis toy eidikoy programmatos ŤDromoi krasioy-Gastronomiať

OI DROMOI TOY KRASIOY

ODOIPORIKO STOYS AMPELWNES THS MAKEDONIAS

Seira pente hmiwrwn ntokimanter

EISAGWGH

An 8ewrhsoyme ws politistika stoixeia oxi mono tis kaloymenes Ťkales texnesť, alla kai tis ka8hmerines synh8eies, to eidos kai ton tropo diatrofhs kai tis symperifores twn an8rwpwn kata thn paragwgh kai thn katanalwsh ths trofhs, tote anamfibola to krasi apotelei to palaiotero kai to mono isws analloiwto stoixeio politismoy twn Ellhnwn.

Ayth mprosta toys galazopodo, panwrio, tornemeno
trapezi prwta twra api8wse, ki apanw toy akoympoyse
kanistri xalkino, kai mesa toy krommydi gia prosfagi,
na pinoyn, meli akomh olo3an8o kai kri8ino agio aleyri,
sterna thn wria koypa, o gerontas poy 'xe ap'thn Pylo ferei,
thn ploymismenh me misokarfa, kai tessera th zwnan
aftia, se ka8e afti de3ozerba xrysa boskologoysan
dyo peristeria, ki apo katw ths diploi briskotan patoi.

Gemath an htan, allos dyskola na thn koynhsei mporei,
ma gero Nestoras anekopa thn eferne sta xeilia.

Ekei sygkerase h 8eomorfh gynaika tote prwta
krasi ap'thn Pramno, 3ynei mesa toy me th xalkenia 3ystra
tyri gidisio, kai paspalise kri8aleyro apo panw
kai to poto san apoteleiwse, toys kalese na pioyne.

Ilias L 628-641
mtfr. N. Kazantzakhs - I.8.Kakridhs

To Apollwnio kai to Dionysiako pneyma orio8etoyn thn ellhnikh antilhch gia ton kosmo, enan kosmo genika antifatiko, me mia ba8ia eswterikh enothta omws, poy thn ylikh ths ekfrash

thn ebriske sthn koinh latreia twn dyo 8ewn stoys Delfoys. As mhn 3exname oti ton xeimwna sigoysan oi paianes kai sth 8esh akoygotan oi di8yramboi.

O Aisxylos onomase to klhma Ťagria mhterať kai o Eyripidhs stis ŤBakxesť edwse th megalyterh synhgoria yper toy oinoy, topo8etwntas ton dipla sto syrtari.

Krasi kai cwmi e3alloy ka8agiazontai apo th xristianikh 8rhskeia, metatrepomena se swma kai aima toy Xristoy.

Sth Makedonia h Dionysiakh paradosh anagnwrizei enan apo toys pio shmantikoys topoys latreias toy 8eoy. E3alloy to kykneio asma toy Eyripidh grafthke sth Makedonikh aylh.

Dyo einai, neare moy, ta prwta aga8a gia toys an8rwpoys: h 8ea Dhmhtra-
h gh toytestin, opws s'aresei mporeis kai na thn prosfwneis.
Ayth trefei toys an8rwpoys me sterea trofh.
O gonos ths Semelhs hl8e argotera, alla isa3ia h prosfora toy:
Toy botryos to nama efeyresh ki eisagwgh dikh toy
sthn koinwnia twn an8rwpwn. Diwxnei th lyph ap'toys
talaipwroys 8nhtoys, otan ta sw8ika toys plhmmyrisei ths
ampeloy h roh fernei ton ypno, sth lh8h rixnei tis pikres ths
hmeras, farmako allo gia tis dystyxies den yparxei ths zwhs.
8eos einai o oinos kai stoys 8eoys prosferetai spondh
wste aytos diasfalizei ta aga8a stoys an8rwpoys.

TA3IDI STO XWRO

Me bash thn ellhnikh istoria ths ampeloyrgias ŤAmpelwnes ths Makedoniasť onomazetai o eyryteros gewgrafikos xwros ths boreioy Ellados, poy symperilambanei ektos apo to omwnymo dioikhtiko diamerisma ths xwras mas kai thn oinopoihtikh perioxh ths Racanhs pros ta notia, ka8ws kai thn perioxh 3an8hs kai Rodophs sta anatolika.

Gia logoys me8odologikoys kai oxi mono, to ta3idi ston Makedoniko ampelwna mporei na akoloy8hsei tis parakatw diadromes:

Perioxh Racanhs: O Olympos, h koilada twn Tempwn kai h 8alassia perioxh twn ekbolwn toy Phneioy syn8etoyn to periballon, opoy 8a pragmatopoih8oyn ta gyrismata ayths ths diadromhs.

Perioxh Naoysas: Ekteinomenh stoys propodes toy Bermioy ektos apo to fysiko kallos kai th megalh paradosh sthn ampelokalliergeia kai thn oinopoihsh syndyazei ta xarakthristika stoixeiwn ths prwtobiomhxanikhs anapty3hs, ths plh8wras arxaiologikwn eyrhmatwn kai parallhla th dynamikh anapty3h toyrismoy sthn eyryterh perioxh sto organwmeno xionodromiko Tria - Pente Phgadia.

H lekanh toy Amyntaioy: Paroysiazei to pleonekthma ypar3hs twn tessarwn limnwn poy periballoyn th zwnh ths ampelokalliergeias kai parallhlh ton oreino ogko toy anatolikoy Bitsioy, opoy hdh anaptyssetai ena reyma oikologikoy kai fysiolatrikoy toyrismoy me epikentro to kentro prostasias ths arkoydas kai ton diathrhteo oikismo toy Nymfaioy.

Perioxh Goymenissas: Me idiaitero xarakthristiko thn geitniash ths me ton A3io kai tis katafytes plagies toy Mpeles.

Perioxh Bertiskoy: San idiaitero stoixeio toy fysikoy periballontos epishmainontai oi limnes Agioy Basileioy kai Bolbh.

Perioxh Dramas: To prostateyomeno apo th syn8hkh Ramsar ws mnhmeio ths fyshs dasos toy Kara Ntere, o potamos Nestos kai to arxaio 8eatro twn Filippwn apoteloyn toys xwroys estiashs toy endiaferontos s'aythn thn perioxh.

Perioxh Xalkidikhs - Agion Oros: Oi ampelokalliergeies se oloklhrh th Xalkidikh kai idiaitera oi Agioreitikoi ampelwnes dinoyn thn eykairia sthn kamera na katagracei topia apeiroy kalloys, alla kai oinopoihtikh kai 8rhskeytikh paradosh aiwnwn.

H peridiabash toy Makedonikoy Ampelwna sto synolo toy, mesa apo tis epimeroys diadromes, opws ekte8hkan parapanw, dinei thn eykairia gia ena ta3idi sto xwro, poikilomorfwn, oso kai ekplhktikhs omorfias topiwn.

TA3IDI STO XRONO

Oi idioi xwroi omws periexoyn mnhmeia terastioy arxaiologikoy endiaferontos, dinontas etsi thn eykairia gia ena e3isoy endiaferon ta3idi sto xrono.

Ta mnhmeia twn Arxaiwn, twn Ellhnikwn kai twn Mesaiwnikwn xronwn, idiws ta palaioxristianika kai ta Byzantina paroysiazoyn ena 3exwristo ployto, poy deixnei thn entonh zwh ths perioxhs se oloklhrh thn istorikh diadromh kai apoteloyn pragmatika zwntana moyseia ths Ellhnikhs Texnhs. Apoteloyn sygxronws pronomiako pedio gia thn anapty3h ths sygkroyshs twn dyo politismwn, poy desposan sthn perioxh ana toys aiwnes: Toy arxaioy Dionysiakoy kai toy Xristianikoy, me to idio kentriko symbolo, to klhma

Asfales oxhma gi' ayto to ta3idi apotelei h ellhnikh poihsh gia th drosia ths ampeloy apo ton 8o aiwna p.X. mexri tis meres mas.

H ellhnikh bakxikh grammateia xrhsimopoiei dyo omoshmantes le3eis: ton oino kai to krasi. Omws pote, se poia fash ths e3eli3hs ths ellhnikhs glwssas kai katw apo poies epirroes o oinos egine krasi;

H anazhthsh ths apanthshs me th martyria toy poihtikoy logoy odhgei sthn ysterh byzantinh periodo. Me to perasma twn aiwnwn, o kekramenos oinos poy genniotan mesa stoys krathres kata th diarkeia twn arxaioellhnikwn symposiwn apo thn krasin toy oinoy me nero, paraxwrhse th 8esh toy sto Ťkrasin oinoyť twn byzantinwn xronwn kai sth synexeia e3elix8hke se krasin, krasi, krasaki, le3eis synh8eis sta poihtika erga toy 14oy kai toy 16oy aiwna. Oloi sxedon oi Byzantinoi me th le3h oinos katalabainoyn Xristos kai Bakxos kai dia ton fobon twn Dionysiwn protimoyn toys oyranioys lhnoys. H epishmh xristianikh grammateia exei tis dikes ths filologikes kathgories me oyrania sympotikh 8ematikh. Mesa se ayto to koinwniko 8rhskeytiko plaisio, o oinos taytisthke me to aima toy Kyrioy kai egine nama sto pothri ths 8eias Eyxaristias, o de oinos twn pi8wn kai argotera toy barelioy, egine oinari kai argotera krasi - krasaki.

Sth neoellhnikh oinikh poihsh, to Dionysiako stoixeio enarmonizetai me to Apollwnio. H Ampelos, symbolo ths idias ths Elladas, enwnei to neo Ellhnismo me ton arxaio kosmo. Thn enwsh ayth -istorikh, politismikh kai koinwnikh - pragmatwnei enas apokleistika ellhnikos 8eos, o Dionysos - Ihsoys, kentriko symbolo ths poihshs toy Sikelianoy, o diaiwnios koinwnikos kai istorikos 8eos, poy ekfrazei to pneyma kai th latreia ths ay8entikhs ellhnikhs enothtas.

PERA APO XWRO - PERA APO XRONO

Eikosi tesseris aiwnes perasan apo tote poy to xeri toy Eyripidh ebaze sto stoma toy xoroy twn Bakxwn ta parakatw logia:

Pieria moyseios edra,
semna klitys Olympoy,
ekeis' age me, Bromie Bromie
probakx' eyie daimon.
Ekei Xarites,
ekei de po8os. Ekei de
Bakxes 8emis orgiazein.

Eikosi tesseris aiwnes meta, ka8e xrono stis 8 Ianoyarioy se xwria ths 8rakhs kai ths Makedonias giortazetai h mera ths ŤMpampwsť ths Mamhs, shmasia poy exei h le3h kai sta Slabika, ena e8imo poy eferan mazi toys oi prosfyges ths Anatolikhs Rwmylias.

Ka8e gynaika, poy mporei na teknopoihsei, episkeptetai th mamh, fernontas dwra. Xynei nero sth mamh na nicei ta xeria ths kai sth synexeia filaei to Ťsxhmať, poy ths proteinoyn oi gries: Ena fallo, kamwmeno apo krasi h loykaniko. Kanoyn asteia, ekeino to loykaniko to klaine, to filoyn. H mamh kamarwnei panw se 8rono, oi gynaikes thn blepoyn me sebasmo kai timh. Akoloy8ei symposio, opoy symmetexoyn oles oi gynaikes, me8wntas. Meta to symposio o xoros twn gynaikwn synodeyei th mamh ntymenh nyfh ki alimono ston antra poy 8a pesei sta xeria twn me8ysmenwn gynaikwn.

Akomh, sto karnabali ths Naoysas kai oxi mono, mia xaroymenh kai me8ysmenh polh paradidetai epi meres se mia me8h peripoy yperbatikh. To soyroypo o aifnidios kai monotonos hxos toy tympanoy, akoloy8oymenos apo o3eies krayges enos klarinoy kalei toys katoikoys gia 3efantwma skorpwntas righ. Ayth h ektos elegxoy me8h tis bradies twn Apokrew, h periergh kai ane3hghth epidrash enos typikoy moysikoy aytosxediasmoy mas stelnei aiwnes pisw. O idios epimonos anhlehs hxos, h idia proeidopoihsh, to idio rigos, h idia aprosdioristh entolh.

W 8alameyma Koyrhtwn
za8eoi te Krhtas
Diogenetores enayloi,
en8a trikory8es antrois
byrsotonon kyklwma tode
moi korybantes hyron.
Bakxeia d'ana syntnonw
kerasan adyboa Frygiwn
aylwn pneymati matros te Reas es
xera 8hkan, ktypon eyasmasi Bakxan.
Para de mainomenoi Satyroi
materos e3anysantos 8eas,
es de xoreymata
synhcan triethridwn
ais xairei Dionysos.

TO KLHMA

Mporei o ploytos ths Makedonias na proerxetai apo tis alles kalliergeies kai th biomhxania ths, h aiwnia omws do3a ths einai to krasi ths . To 8eama poy prosferoyn oi ampelwnes ths, kyriws thn anoi3h kai to f8inopwro einai sygklonistiko.

To krasi den einai mia akomh kalliergeia, enas akomh tropos epibiwshs. Oi kallierghtes ths my8ikhs ampeloy thn antimetwpizoyn me kapoia ierothta, thn 8ewroyn peripoy melos ths oikogeneias toys. Anaferontai se aythn me ekfraseis tryferothtas. ŤTo ampeli koimataiť, lene toys xeimwniatikoys mhnes. Tote poy organwnontai ta alla ekeina panhgyria, sta liga oikogeneiaka apostakthria, toys ambykes, opoy etoimazoyn mystika ta myrwdika poy toys empistey8hkan oi gerontoteroi, wste o ka8enas na epityxei ena idiaitero, oikogeneiako xarmani.

H mysthriwdhs diadikasia ths zymwshs kai wrimanshs toy oinoy mporei kai shmera akomh na prokalei se ampeloyrgoys kai eidhmones parastaseis poy anakaloyn apo makria antistoixes my8ikes. Ton blepoyn ws embio on poy apo to xaotiko anabrasmo ths nioths apoperatwnei ba8miaia thn diamorfwsh toy se ka8e ka8arothta kai dynamh. Symbainei edw, otan h wrimansh moiazei na exei stamathsei kai moiazei epishs na exei epiteyx8ei o megalyteros ba8mos yperoxhs, na 3ekinaei pali h xaotikh kinhsh, opws sthn periptwsh enos an8rwpoy poy epanakamptei sthn efhbeia gia na diatre3ei akoma mia fora ton dromo ths e3eli3hs kai na katakthsei akomh megalyterh eygeneia kai ka8arothta. Me th metamorfwsh toy to krasi moiazei na anadidei thn hliakh 8ermothta poy elabe ap'e3w kai mia palia laikh pisth bebaiwnei oti to krasi diathrei thn allhloyxia toy me th zwh ths fyshs. Ayto e3hgei, ypoti8etai, thn ananewmenh drash toy krasioy poy wrimazei kata thn anoi3h, otan an8izoyn ta klhmata.

ŤOtan ta klhmata an8izoyn pali
anadeyei to krasi mes to bareli.
Otan ta roda pyrwnoyn pali
den 3erw ti moy symbaineiť
Goethe

DIATROFIKH PYRAMIDA

Sthn Ellada, opws kai se oles tis xwres ths lekanhs ths Mesogeioy h ampelooinikh paradosh einai idiaitera ploysia. To krasi einai syndedemeno me ton politismo twn lawn ths kai me tis diatrofikes toys synh8eies. Den einai loipon periergo to oti sthn perifhmh Ťpyramida ths Mesogeiakhs Diatrofhsť, thn proteinomenh pleon apo ton Pagkosmio Organismo Ygeias Diatrofikh Pyramida, briskoyme kai to krasi.

H 8essalonikh - h polh toy lamproy parel8ontos emelle na dex8ei stoys kolpoys ths plh8os an8rwpwn diaforwn, se 8rhskeia, e8nothta, synh8eies, h8h kai e8ima. Edwse storgh, ergasia, sthrigma se myrioys prosfyges kai krathse ap'oloys aytoys sto diaba twn aiwnwn ena xarakthra poy deixnei pws, par'oles tis sygxrones e3arseis, diathrei xarakthristika, synh8eies kai tropoys zwhs poy apokalyptoyn mystika toy parel8ontos sth moysikh, sthn poihsh, sth zwgrafikh, sthn agiografia, stis texnes, akomh kai sth mageirikh.

H mageirikh poy ka8ierwse sxedon ana to panellhnio thn polh san prwteyoysa ths gastronomias. Ayth h oloena ay3anomenh fhmh poy synexws enisxyoyn me tis dhmioyrgies toys oi perifhmoi estiatores se olh thn ektash ths polhs 8esmopoieitai me thn diorganwsh enos festibal Gastronomias kai Krasioy.

O paradeisos twn edesmatwn kai h poikilia twn eklektwn Makedonikwn krasiwn 8a prosferoyn mia apo tis ychloteres apolayseis ths.

PROSEGGISH TOY 8EMATOS

H opoiadhpote sobarh proseggish toy 8ematos ka8istatai sxedon adynath xwris thn gennaiodwrh boh8eia ths Enwshs Oinoparagwgwn toy Ampelwna ths Makedonias.
H anagkh gia thn kata to dynaton eyryterh aphxhsh ths prospa8eias epiballei thn ypar3h enos dhmofiloys dhmosioy proswpoy san paroysiasth ths seiras.
H eyreia ektash mesa sthn opoia einai katatetmhmenoi oi Makedonikoi Ampelwnes kai o ethsios kyklos ths kalliergeias, synepagontai ton xrono enos etoys gia thn oloklhrwsh toy egxeirhmatos.
H ploysia laografikh - moysikh paradosh ths perioxhs, h sxetikh me ton oino, apaitei e3onyxistikh ereyna kai katagrafh me thn syndromh kai thn ka8odhghsh eidikwn symboylwn.
Xrhsimh, an oxi aparaithth einai h anaparastash xorikwn apo tis ŤBakxesť.
Oi synentey3eis twn eidikwn sto 8ema kalliergeia - oinopoihsh - tropos katanalwshs, einai e3isoy aparaithtes me tis synentey3eis an8rwpwn poy sympyknwnoyn th laikh paradosh aiwnwn.
H seira aposkopei oxi mono sth gnwrimia twn 8eatwn me ton Makedoniko Ampelwna kai ta mystika toy, opws pio panw ekte8hkan, alla kai sthn probolh symplhrwmatikwn eidikwn proiontwn fysiolatrikoy, oikologikoy, arxaiologikoy, politistikoy k.l.p. toyrismoy, me apwtero skopo na enisxysei to reyma episkechs toy Makedonikoy xwroy mesa apo toys dromoys toy krasioy.
Ektos apo thn ellhnikh ekdoxh twn pente hmiwrwn epeisodiwn, proteinetai kai mikroterhs diarkeias die8nhs ekdoxh toy 8ematos sthn Agglikh, Gallikh kai Germanikh glwssa.

Gia thn EUROBIG - ULA

Giannhs Karypidhs

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